As the hair thins and the body sags, the old adage about travel 'broadening the mind' gets flipped on its head, the excitements of a quarter century ago transitioning to frustrations and groin pulls. Which brings me to India, a litmus test for travellers both seasoned and green. I have met many who loved the country, many who hated it. I understand completely, having run that gamut and back again within minutes. India is that kind of place. The colours are vibrant (it is not a land of beige); the history is compelling, the architectural feats extraordinary. And yet, it can be a difficult country to like, a paradox where people can be so welcoming in cities so oppressive, where the heat, crowds and incessant honking are at odds with sublime cuisine and acts of kindness. This can be especially vexing of course, but I have tried to capture at least a hint of the subcontinent's fascinations, and for every sour note I strike in the journal from time to time, there are a dozen images that should serve as counterpoint.